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On this page the expedition comes together. Click the links to scroll to the relevant section:

Blog posts Paddling log sheet Water test results Background Supporters
You can click here to see some photographs from the expedition.

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A Slow Boat Down the Ganges

The Blog

Here is a grid of the blogs featuring articles on each day's status and progress.

And it is a wrap

Jan 10, The Final Push Down the Ganges

Slow Boat Down the Ganges Update 63 Today was a watershed day. The final push to Calcutta to end what has been a fantastic journey. The excitement was coursing through my ...
House of Jagat Seth

Jan 08, Jewel in the British Crown

Slow Boat Down the Ganges Update 62 Murshid Quli Khan, the Diwan of Bengal under Aurangzeb transferred the capital from Dhaka, Bangladesh, and renamed the city Murshidabad ...
The Farakka Barrage

Jan 07, Goodbye Holy Ganges

Slow Boat Down the Ganges Update 61 One extra day at Farakka was called for. I have been to Farakka before, many years back, when I was motorbiking to Sikkim and Bhutan, and ...
All this paddling has developed many muscles

Jan 05, Paddling to the land of my birth

Slow Boat Down the Ganges Update 60 We were in what is unkindly called the badlands of Bihar. Yes, these lands were made of legends, of stories of local gangsters, of ...
Lots of locals to lend a helping hand

Jan 02, 2019, On to Munger

Slow Boat Down the Ganges Update 59 We woke up to the renewed hospitality of the Sharma brothers. It was fogged out outside, and the river ahead was not visible, with ...
I renamed this place Pottyfull Ghat

Jan 01, 2019, Pottyfull at Patipul Ghat

Slow Boat Down the Ganges Update 58 At the very outset let me wish everyone a very happy 2019. Today, as the old gives way to the new, it provides an opportunity to make new ...
There are monks and nuns from all over the world

Dec 31, 2018, In search of enlightenment

Slow Boat Down the Ganges Update 57 After many years of being partial to the teachings of the Lord Buddha, I finally managed to walk the path that he walked two thousand ...
Calm river and following winds

Dec 30, 2018, Hop, Step and Jump to Patna

Slow Boat Down the Ganges Update 56 Needless to say, I slept like a log. Chandru and Raghu found a couple of tables that are otherwise used to display the wares that Golu ...
Crowd at Jau Vinayak Temple near Varanasi

Dec 28, 2018, Happy days are here again

Slow Boat Down the Ganges Update 55 Cracked rib, busted car, a couple of weddings, celebrations of a wedding conducted thirty one years ago, and finally I am back on the ...
Busted car

Dec 08, 2018, Stubborn as a mule

Slow Boat Down the Ganges Update 54 Dec 05 was our wedding anniversary. For people of my vintage, parties are few and far between, particularly those celebrating important ...
Oct 02 - A few metres and thirsty already

Dec 04, 2018, It’s all about fresh water

Slow Boat Down the Ganges Update 53 A couple of decades ago, bottled water came to India. I was living in Delhi then (as now), and was convinced that this new product was ...

Dec 01, 2018, Luxury, once again

Slow Boat Down the Ganges Update 52 There is a decision I have taken a few days ago, while in Delhi resting and recuperating, that redefined this expedition a little bit. ...
Sea Eagle skeg

Nov 28, 2018, To skeg or not to skeg

Slow Boat Down the Ganges Update 51 I am halfway down the river on A SLOW BOAT DOWN THE GANGES. The down trip starts now, when the distance to go becomes lesser and lesser ...
Prayer flags adorn the canoe

Nov 23, 2018, Let’s lose some weight

Slow Boat Down the Ganges Update 50 The rib does not seem to be cracked after all. It is awfully sore and for the first two or three days, it was difficult to deal with the ...
The birds look much better in reality than on a photo

Nov 16, 2018, Bye Varanasi, hello cracked rib

Slow Boat Down the Ganges Update 49 Babu Khan, the autorickshaw driver of yesterday offered to come with a four wheeled vehicle to transport me and the gear to edge of the ...

Log Sheet

See the progress of the expedition, how much I paddle in the day, where I reach, where I rest, etc. This gets populated as I go down the river every day, depending on internet connectivity, level of fatigue, etc.

Water Quality Test Results

The results of the water quality tests conducted through the day, and throughout the journey can be viewed in the table below. Scroll down to see more results. The data will start getting populated once I am back on the water on Oct 29.


A Brief Background

This is an awesome and exciting journey. A first for a canoe, and a first for me. This almost 2,500km will be the longest canoe journey by an Indian ... ever, with more than a few milestones that might be crossed along the way. It will be the first, and therefore the fastest descent of the Ganges in a canoe, the longest canoe journey by an Indian

Take a look at the video below to get an idea of the why behind this expedition, the gear that I will be carrying, and the route.

A look at the gear and equipment that will be carried during the journey...

The proposed route...

Let us collectively do our bit to save the Planet ... one river at a time...

A look at India's holiest, and one of the most polluted rivers in the world

People bathe in its waters, pay homage to their ancestors and to their Gods. On the journey home they carry back some water. When a loved one dies, Hindus bring the ashes of the deceased to the Ganges ... or cremate them on her banks. It provides water to about 40% of India's population across 5 states, serving an estimated population of 500 million people or more, which is larger than any other river in the world. The river flows through 29 cities with population over 100,000, 23 cities with population between 50,000 and 100,000, and about 48 other towns.

A large number of cities, tanneries, chemical plants, textile mills, distilleries, slaughterhouses and hospitals along the river contribute to the pollution by dumping untreated waste into it. Industrial effluents are about 12% of the total volume of effluent reaching the Ganges.

A study conducted by the National Cancer Registry Program under the Indian Council of Medical Research in 2012, suggested that "those living along its banks in Uttar Pradesh, Bihar and Bengal are more prone to cancer than anywhere else in the country". Water in the Ganges has been correlated to contracting dysentery, cholera, hepatitis, as well as severe diarrhea which continues to be one of the leading causes of death of children in India.

The Ganges still has magical and mythical properties. But does that give us the right to keep abusing her, to continue to pollute her? What if she turns around one day and says, "That's enough, I've had it." It's time to go down the Ganges to save the river.

Watch a video to understand the scourge of plastic pollution.

We are raising awareness about pollution.

Zero SUP Expedition

If we stop throwing garbage indiscriminately, we will soon become the cleanest country in the world. Let each of us take the first step to make India clean. And then let each of us encourage others to take this pledge. Will we see a cleaner India and a purer Ganges immediately at the end of this expedition? Probably not. But a start has to be made and the first step has to come from us. Cynicism is easy, action a bit more difficult.

Take the pledge and encourage others as well. We will do so through this journey.

Homage to a martyr and a friend

Sqn Ldr Ajay Ahuja, VrC (P)This expedition gives us the opportunity to pay homage to Sqn Leader Ajay Ahuja, VrC (P). He is not only a braveheart who laid down his life for the country, but we from St Paul's School Kota, Rajasthan are proud to have been his classmates. This expedition is way to remember the sacrifice of Ajay and other men in uniform who have made the supreme sacrifice.

On 27 May 1999, as part of the Kargil operations, a photo reconnaissance mission was launched. A member of the mission, Flt Lt Nachiketa ejected from his MiG-27L after an engine flame-out. Sqn Ldr Ahuja stayed over enemy positions to help rescue attempts knowing about the existence of enemy surface-to-air missiles in the area. However, his MiG-21MF fighter was hit by a shoulder-fired FIM-92 Stinger. Ahuja gave a radio call, "Hercules, something has hit my plane, possibility of missile hit cannot be ruled out, I am ejecting over...(location)." Indian Air Force authorities lost track of his aircraft and all communications shortly afterward. A post-mortem examination conducted at the Srinagar Base Hospital claimed that Ahuja had landed safely after ejecting from his plane, but had been killed later by Pakistani soldiers.

We, the St Paul's School Old Boys Kota 1980, are proud of you Ajay. Rest in peace brother.

This effort is powered by

Dorf Ketal


Sea Eagle boats

in association with

Namami Gange

and graciously supported by

Good Living Organic

TruBlu water purifier

Plastic Free Coalition


A&S Creations

My sincere and heartfelt thanks and acknowledgements to some people who have helped put this expedition together:

Abhey Thareja, Aditya Pratap Singh, Amit Goenka, Anjan Lahiri, Anubhav Mittal, Banibrata Bhattacharya, Bhaskar DK, Chandrasekar S, Col Ashok Ghoshal, Col DM Ray, Col SPS Sandhu, Col Sudeep Bhattacharjee, Deepak Saha, Dhruv Dudeja, Dipesh Narayan Ray, E Theophilus, Hem Kolachina, Julian Crandall Hollick, Kamal Gupta, Maj Gen HK Singh, Maj Gen Somnath Jha, Manu Srivastava, Mark Palmer, Mohit Oberoi, Mohit Tiwari, Nitin Goel, Nungshi Malik, Partha Roy, Prabhu Roy, Pranab Chakraborty, Pranay Kumar, Priyadarshi Mitra, Ragu Thakur, Rajeev Das, Raj Silvano, Ram Jalan, Rana Rajesh, Sam, Sam Sidana, Sandeep Kohli, Sandra Palmer, Sanjay Bali, Sanjay Dhar, Sanjay Tiwari, Shilpika Gautam, Sidhartha Guha, Sudev Barar, Sumit Sabherwal, T Anil Kumar, Tara Bagaria, Tashi Malik.

I can never ever remember and document the hundreds of people I have met along the route who have made this journey so much more enjoyable. I will try and put down some of the names, but I regret that I will miss out on so many of them. My deepest apologies to anyone (and there will be many) whose names are missed.

Uttarakhand Police who escorted us to Balawali, the sadhu who lent his home at Balawali, the Village Pradhan at Mamipur and his family, Ashok Sharma (Garhmukteswar), Mahesh Kewat (Pooth), Gulfan the boatman who helped lug my boat across a sand bar, Munnu Singh (Chiyasar), the Village pradhan and her family at Chiyasar, Arvind Rajput (Chiyasar), the sadhu at Mehandipur ghat, Shubham Shukla (Gidaso), the sadhu and his wife (and the cows) at Gidaso, Maharaj Dev Giri (Gokuna Ghat), Arjun Mishra (Gokuna Ghat), Col SPS Sandhu, SM and the entire team of the Ganga Task Force, members of the Ganga Vichar Manch Allahabad, the wonderful villagers of Kanigada, Maya Sewak Nisar (Sitamarhi), Babu Khan the autorickshaw driver at Varanasi, Rahul who gave me permission to film at Manikarnika Ghat, Rajesh Nishad (Sarnath), Golu (Kaithi), and many many more people who I cannot even remember the names of.

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This Post Has 37 Comments

  1. manoj tiwari

    I have no words to describe how deeply moved I am watching you make this journey.

  2. U P Singh

    Went through ur two hour plus video, very well expressed. Ur expedition will certainly help creating awareness for keeping Ganga clean.
    I as DG, NMCG earlier and now as Secretary Ministry of Water Resources, River Development and Ganga Rejuvenation has been very closely and passionately associated with Namami Gange. We have done a bit but it’s a long way to go.
    Congratulations and well done

    1. Chandan Lahiri
      Chandan Lahiri

      Thank you so much Sir. I hope the film and the message it conveys does its humble bit in making and keeping the Ganges clean. I thank you for the help and support received from Namami Gange.

  3. Alexander Foster


    Fascinating reading. Five stars.

  4. Manoj Kumar Das

    My best wishes !Slow and steady wins the race!

  5. Sanju

    Wish you the best of luck for the great slow boat journey down the Ganges.. Stay safe and motivated.. Bon Voyage!!


  6. Alex Foster

    Dear Chandan,

    Wishing you a fantastic voyage. Remember to stay safe and keep your electrica dry, so you can record all the wonderful footage for our viewing of the expedition. Best wishes. ?

    1. Chandan Lahiri
      Chandan Lahiri

      Thank you Alex. I am carrying more dry bags than necessary. Will likely find that I needed a few more. Thankfully with the road support, a lot of stuff can get transported in the vehicle. Thanks for the advice. Hope to capture some good footage.

  7. Samir Singh

    Shall follow your progress with keen interest. All the very best, stay safe…

  8. Vispy Saher

    I share your excitement and look forward to a status report on your expedition Stroke away Chandan

    1. Chandan Lahiri
      Chandan Lahiri

      Thanks a lot Vispy. Two million paddlestrokes or thereabouts makes for one hell of a journey. I hope it is as exciting as I am hoping it will be. Do follow the progress on this page.

  9. Tejender Singh Sethi

    सतगुरु जी आप के अभियान को सुरक्षित एवं सफल बनाएँ यह प्रार्थना है!

  10. Abeer

    Nothing ventured. Nothing gained. You are maxing the maxim! Salute to you! And very good wish for a ride of a lifetime (till your next!)

    1. Chandan Lahiri
      Chandan Lahiri

      Thank you Abeer. Hope to see you when I pass under the Howrah Bridge.

  11. Dev Mehta

    All the very best Chandan…..make every moment memorable….will look forward to following ur expedition

    1. Chandan Lahiri
      Chandan Lahiri

      Thank you so much. I hope following the journey will be nearly as exciting as being on it.

  12. Amit Varshney

    I wish you good luck. Successful completion of your expedition will be a moment of pride for every indian.

    1. Chandan Lahiri
      Chandan Lahiri

      Thank you so much for the wishes. We hope to live up to the trust and expectations.

  13. Sanjay Tiwari

    I can meet you at one of the following three points of your choice.


    All the best for your expedition.

    Sanjay T.

    1. Chandan Lahiri
      Chandan Lahiri

      Awesome. And why just any one of the three places? Why not all three? Then I can quite easily gorge on the wonderful protein supplement you have graciously provided, knowing that more is on the way.

  14. Amit Varshney

    Good morning Chandan
    Bon voyage for great slow boat journey down the Ganges.

    Beware Sirji rain water pouring, increasing the water inflow of river can hamper your canoeing.

    Be prepared for the same.

    Good day and keep your morale high .

    Best of luck.

    1. Chandan Lahiri
      Chandan Lahiri

      Thanks a lot Amit for the wishes. Yes, it is raining and is likely to continue for a few more days. The effect of rains means that the water volume will be good and I will get some additional help from the current. But I agree, the additional volume brings its own challenges and I will need to be careful.

  15. Hemant

    Great to go through your daily schedules and preparations .We are also charged up.
    Ganga wont die. And some one will keep asking ” tu bahati hai Kuyn” – why do you flow. por que fluyes tan silenciosa y descaradamente? Bhupen HazariKa . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OzWa6yuLX2A
    Hazarika.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aJOBBm6CcO8 .
    If you need any support at Garhmukteshwar( my village nearby) , Narora ( Tata Chemicals), Farrukhabad ( Territorial Army Bn), Allahabad (newly raised Ganga Ecological Battalion of Territorial Army ), I will organise . At least I can share the mobile
    number of contact person if it can be of any use.
    There will be a rain contingency – at least one spell.
    We wish you all the best for this great journey. There is no journey which is better .

    1. Chandan Lahiri
      Chandan Lahiri

      Thank you so much Hemant for your kind offer. I will definitely take it up. This is a solo expedition and any support I can get along the way will help immensely. All these cities you mention, Garhmukteshwar, Narora, Farrukhabad, and Allahabad, are cities where I plan to stay the night. Maybe I can stay in your village at Garhmukteshwar. I was a little concerned about the dam at Narora … not anymore, with your offer of support.

      I sincerely wish that the Ganga does not dry up. She is the Mother Goddess and so many people depend on her.

    2. Chandan Lahiri
      Chandan Lahiri

      CO Ganga Task Force spoke to me and has graciously agreed to host us at Kanpur and Allahabad. Thank you so much. Grateful if you could also extend your offer for Garhmukteswar, Narora and Farrukhabad. This will make life so much more comfortable.

  16. Sudev

    Keenly reading

    1. Chandan Lahiri
      Chandan Lahiri

      Dear Sudev, I am so glad that you are finding the time to go through this page. It is so gratifying. Thank you so much for your continued support.

  17. Alexander Foster.

    Wishing you a fair voyage Chandan. Keep your batteries charged and your electrics dry. ? Sorry I couldn’t crew for you this year, perhaps next time.
    Stay safe and enjoy a good paddle with your adventure.

    Kind regards,

    Alex Foster.
    Thames Auxiliary Marine Service.

    1. Chandan Lahiri
      Chandan Lahiri

      Thank you so much Alex. It would have been great to have you crew during this effort. Like you say, there’s always next time. I’m sure you will be there for me in spirit.

  18. Rahul


  19. Chandan Lahiri
    Chandan Lahiri

    Welcome to the comments section. Do leave your comments, hopefully constructive. I hope you will follow the expedition.

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