House of Jagat Seth

Jan 08, Jewel in the British Crown

Slow Boat Down the Ganges Update 62 Katara Masjid Murshid Quli Khan, the Diwan of Bengal under Aurangzeb transferred the capital from Dhaka, Bangladesh, and renamed the city Murshidabad after his own name, after getting Aurangzeb’s consent. Murshidabad became the capital of the Nawabs of Bengal, and even remained the seat of administration for the …

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All this paddling has developed many muscles

Jan 05, Paddling to the land of my birth

Slow Boat Down the Ganges Update 60 All this paddling has developed many muscles We were in what is unkindly called the badlands of Bihar. Yes, these lands were made of legends, of stories of local gangsters, of complete lawlessness. Here lived people who had virtually no sense of worth of life and could and …

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The Bodhi tree

Dec 31, 2018, In search of enlightenment

Slow Boat Down the Ganges Update 57 The Bodhi tree After many years of being partial to the teachings of the Lord Buddha, I finally managed to walk the path that he walked two thousand five hundred years ago. Well, it is impossible for a person like me to walk on the Buddha’s figurative footsteps, …

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Crowd at Jau Vinayak Temple near Varanasi

Dec 28, 2018, Happy days are here again

Slow Boat Down the Ganges Update 55 Crowd at Jau Vinayak Temple near Varanasi Cracked rib, busted car, a couple of weddings, celebrations of a wedding conducted thirty one years ago, and finally I am back on the river again. And this time with a reality reminiscent of the time when the expedition started. I …

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Busted car

Dec 08, 2018, Stubborn as a mule

Slow Boat Down the Ganges Update 54 Busted car Dec 05 was our wedding anniversary. For people of my vintage, parties are few and far between, particularly those celebrating important watershed moments like birthdays and anniversaries. It is up to the children to set up some kind of celebration. And they did. The two daughters …

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